The Chronicles of Corset:The

The Chronicles of Corset:The Chronicles of Corset : From Whalebone to The Merry WidowBy Aditi Singh AIFT 4th year Student Mentors: Ms. Kavita Sharma & Ms. Vinita JunejaBy the 1830s, steel stays began replacing traditional whalebone in corsetry. However, these were not ideal for all climates. Diarist Emily Eden noted needing a silver “husk” for her journey to India, as the humid weather rusted steel and ruined garments. In 1839, French innovator Jean Werly patented a loom-made corset, which gained popularity until around 1890, when machine-made corsets became the norm. At that time, corsets were accessible and affordable—commonly priced at one dollar ($1)—a stark contrast to the earlier handmade, often home-made, versions.Late 19th Century: The Corset ControversyFor many dress reformists and moral commentators of the late 1800s, the corset became a symbol of vanity and danger. Critics argued that corsets promoted immodesty and restricted women’s freedom, both physically and socially. Claims that corsets could rearrange internal organs, remove ribs, and impair fertility abounded. Although tightlacing wasn’t common, sensationalized stories of extreme cases fueled public outrage. Doctors cautioned against its use, and preachers denounced it as morally corrupt. Yet, for many women, fashion was one of the few means of self-expression—and corsets remained a key element of that identity.Early 20th Century: Shifting Silhouettes and TechnologiesFashion continued to evolve. Between 1908 and 1914, styles favored narrow hips and skirts, prompting corsets to be elongated, covering the thighs and altering the hip silhouette. The waistline was visually raised and widened. These designs were often uncomfortable and required elastic fabric strips. In 1911, with the advent of rubberized elastics, the girdle began to replace the corset, focusing more on shaping the hips than cinching the waist.Mid-20th Century and the Brief ReturnCorsets made a brief comeback in 1939, but World War II halted their resurgence. Later, in 1952, Warner released ‘The Merry Widow’ corset, famously worn by Lana Turner in the film The Merry Widow, designed by Maidenform. This marked a nostalgic return to classic shaping garments, blending glamour with function.The Chronicles of Corset